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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. But, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the family totally shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” says a proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary achievement.